Principals of HMI
Colonel Rajneesh Joshi
December 2024 to till date
The 16th Principal of HMI, is a decorated officer and adventurer known for his exemplary leadership and passion for the outdoors. Commissioned into the 13 Garhwal Rifles in 2005, he commanded troops along the Line of Control and held key training roles in the Indian Army. A passionate adventurer, Colonel Joshi has scaled more than 30 peaks across India and abroad, including Mt. Nun (7135m), Mt. Kun (7077m), Mt Abi Gamin (7355M), Mt. Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mt Domekhang (7264m). In 2025, he became the first serving Principal of HMI to summit Mt. Everest, adding to his many records and honours. An author and a photographer, Colonel Joshi continues to inspire through his dedication, courage, and creativity.
Group Captain Jai Kishan
December 2018 to December 2024
An alumnus of HMI, he completed his Basic and Advanced Courses in 2001 and 2002. A seasoned mountaineer with 17 expeditions-was member of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, and Mt. Cho Oyu expeditions and has summited major peaks across five continents, including Mt. Denali, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Vinson and Mt. Kilimanjaro. He holds six World and five National Records and was awarded the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award twice, including for Lifetime Achievement. As Principal, he led transformative initiatives at HMI, including campus renovation, eco-campaigns, and the display of India’s largest national flag across iconic locations, including Antarctica.
Colonel Neeraj Rana
January 2008 to January 2013
Colonel Rana is associated with all three spheres of adventure sports, i.e., Aero, Aqua and land activities. He is a trained microlight pilot and instructor in Paragliding. His remarkable achievements are Mt. Bhagirathi II, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Chaokhamba III, Mt. Chaukhamba IV as Dy. leader, He was the leader of HMI Makalu Exp in 2009 and HMI Everest Exp in 2012.
He was felicitated by the National Geographic Channel for “Mission Everest” and awarded the Chief of Army Staff Commendation card for his first ascent of “Draupadi ka Danda”. His Other achievements, as a leader on a Search & Rescue operation in the Garhwal Himalayas, retrieving 06 members of a trekking team in 2003. Maiden Paragliding flight with 16 launches in 36 Sector Sumdo at 11000ft and Kaza Spiti Valley at an altitude of 14000ft.
Colonel J. S. Dhillon
August 2004 to January 2008
A distinguished mountaineer and skier, he was the first Indian to climb the virgin Saser Kangri IV along with the British team in 1987. His name also figures in the Limca Book of World Records for leading the most challenging Indian Attempt on Kamet from the west face. He has participated in and led a large number of expeditions in the Himalayas.
Colonel Vijay Singh
September 1999 to August 2004
He has served as an instructor in High Altitude Warfare School, Gulmarg. He was the leader of a successful HMI Mount Everest Expedition from the North Face in 2003, in which two climbers summitted the mountain.
Colonel H. S. Chauhan
April 1995 to September 1999
His Mountaineering career has been quite eventful; he has many successful expeditions to peaks which include Mt. Stok Kangri, Mt. Gulab Kangri, Mt. Blanc (French Alps), Mt. Mana, Mt. Neelkanth, Mt. Kabru, Mt. Nanda Devi East, Mt. Gaya North, Mt. Gorichen, Mt. Kamet, Mt. Abi Gamin and Mt. Aconcagua (Argentina). He received the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award. He was a member of Trans Himalayan Expedition, which traversed 8000 Km in 475 days.
Colonel Ajit Dutt
May 1990 to February 1995
His climbs include Mt. Shivling (1985), Mt. Satopanth (1997), the first climb of Mt.Gorichen (1994), Mt. Mukut Parvat (1999), Mt. Blanc (1991) and Valley (1982). He was an Indian delegate to the Mountaineering Commission, UIAA. His publications are ‘Call of the Valley and Quest for Stillness’. He was awarded the “Gen Daulat Sing Trophy” for Mountaineering. He was a member of the 1985 Army Everest Expedition.
Colonel Amit Roy
December 1985 to December 1989
His mountaineering exploits include B.C. Roy Peak (Bidhan Peak) near HMI Base Camp (1967), Mt.Gangotri (1975), Mt. Gangotri I & II (1976), Mt. Raul, Mt. Gharol & Mt. Brammah (1977). He has also climbed Mt. Ngauruhoe and Mt. Ruapehu, New Zealand. A senior member of the mountaineering Community, he remained active in the field post retirement and was associated with the IMF, New Delhi.
Brig D. K. Khullar
December 1981 to August 1985
His Mountaineering exploits include Mt. Gorichen (1962), Mt. Kokthang North (1967), Mt. Devban (1968), and Mt. Kinnaur Kailash (1973). He was the leader of the 1984 Indian Mt. Everest Expedition in which Ms. Bachendri Pal made it to the summit (She is the first Indian woman to climb the summit of the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest) and the 1987 Indo-British Army Mt. Saser Kangri IV expedition. Brig Khullar is an accomplished writer. His book “The Call of Everest” is still a great read in the annals of Everest climbing.
Group Captain A. K. Chowdhury
May 1977 to December 1981
Gp. Capt. A.K. Chowdhury has been a name to reckon with. He was a member of the first Indian Expedition to Mt. Nanda Devi, the Indian Mt. Everest Expedition 1960 and the first successful Mt. Neelkanth Expedition 1961. He is remembered for his humane approach.
Group Captain Amar Jit Singh Grewal
January 1973 to May 1977
An accomplished mountaineer, he did the basic course in mountaineering, following it up with the advanced course at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling. He was part of India’s first expedition to Mt. Everest under Brig Gyan Singh, but had to abandon his attempt to scale the peak barely 656 ft away from the summit, due to bad weather, later he climbed Mt. Neelkanth. He was the Director, Indian Supply Mission, London, from 1967 to 1972, and a member of the Board of Governors of St. Paul’s School, Darjeeling. His hobbies included photography, trekking, journalism and shooting. He is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, London, and a member of the Alpine Club, London. Gp Capt AJS Grewal was also the leader of the IMF & IAF expedition to Mt. Talung.
Lieutenant Colonel Avtar Singh Cheema
January 1971 to January 1973
The fifth Principal of the Institute, he was a member & Summiteer of the first successful Indian Mt. Everest expedition in 1965. The institute’s indoor rock-climbing wall has been named after him. He was awarded the Padma Shri for his contribution to the field of mountaineering.
Colonel Narendra Kumar (Bull Kumar)
June 1966 to December 1970
Colonel N. Kumar fourth Principal of the Institute, was awarded Padma Bhushan & Padma Shri for his stellar service in the field of mountaineering. Out of 13 highest peaks above 24,000ft, nine have been climbed under his leadership. His triumph on the Kanchenjunga North East Spur route is still part of climbing folklore. He was Deputy Leader of the 1965 Mt. Everest Expedition, which had put nine people on the top, a world record at that time. Popularly, he was known as “Bull Kumar”. He is known to be the Siachen Saviour, for he was the first to detect the cartographic aggression of Pakistan in the Siachen glacier area.
Colonel B. S. Jaiswal
March 1962 to June 1966
He had been an accomplished mountaineer in the Indian Army. He led the first successful expedition to Mt. Rathong in West Sikkim (HMI training area) in 1964. It was during his watch that Lord & Lady John Hunt visited HMI, Darjeeling.
Brig Gyan Singh
March 1958 to March 1962
His contribution to Indian mountaineering has been unparalleled. The best part, in 1960, he led the first Indian attempt to Mount Everest. Unfortunately, the expedition was short of the summit by 656ft when they were forced to return due to very bad weather. He was commissioned in the Regiment of Artillery in June 1940. In 1947, he set up the Army Ski Training School in Gulmarg, Kashmir, which is now the High Altitude Warfare School in 1961.
In Nov 1979, Brig Gyan Singh founded the National Adventure Foundation to promote adventure among the youth throughout the country. In recognition of his services to the Nation in the field of Mountaineering, Brig Gyan Singh was awarded the Padma Shri in 1961. He was also awarded the IMF gold medal in 1993 for his outstanding contribution in the field of mountaineering andthe National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement.
Major Narendra Dhar Jayal (Nadnu Jayal)
June 1954 to March 1958
Major Narendra Dhar Jayal was one of the pioneers to introduce mountaineering in the country. His prominent mountaineering exploits include first ascents of Mt. Sakang (24,150ft) and Mt. Saken (24,130 ft). Major Jayal was the leader and summiteer of the 1951 expedition to Mt. Kamet. He also led an expedition to Mt. Nanda Devi in 1957. Beside on experienced climber, he was the person who took up the great challenge for the construction and development of HMI Campus and Base Camp. HMI is still beholden to the memory of its founder Principal, who is the real doyen of Himalayan climbing. Unfortunately, he died on an expedition to Mt. Cho Oyu in China in 1959.
The sixteenth Principal of HMI, Colonel Rajneesh Joshi is a distinguished military officer and adventurer whose career exemplifies outstanding leadership and dedication. Beyond his military and adventurous accomplishments, Colonel Joshi is an accomplished writer and photographer.
Gp Capt Jai Kishan, commissioned into the Indian Air Force in 1996, is an accomplished mountaineer who has summited peaks like Mt Elbrus, Mt Denali, Mt Aconcagua, Mt. Vinson, and Deo Tibba.He has won the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award twice.
Colonel Neeraj Rana
Colonel Rana had the distinction of serving as Vice Principal of Nehru Institute Mountaineering for three years. Colonel Rana is associated with all three spheres of adventure sports i.e., Aero, Aqua and land activities.
Colonel J. S. Dhillon
A distinguished mountaineer and skier, he was the first Indian to climb the virgin Saser Kangri IV along with the British team in 1987. His name also figures in the Limca Book of World Records for leading the most challenging Indian attempt on Kamet from the west face.
Colonel Vijay Singh
His Mountaineering career has been quite eventful. He has served as an instructor at High Altitude Warfare School, Gulmarg. He was the leader of the successful HMI Mount Everest Expedition from North Face in 2003 in which two climbers summitted the mountain.
Colonel H. S. Chauhan
His Mountaineering career has been quite eventful, he has many successful expeditions to peaks which include Stok Kangri, Gulab Kangri, Mount Blanc (French Alps), Mana, Neelkanth, Kabru, Nanda Devi East Gya North, Gorichen, Kamet, Abi Gamin and Aconcagua (Argentina). He received the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award.
Colonel Ajit Dutt
His climbs include Everest (1985), Shivling (1985), Satopanth (1997), the first climb of Gorichen (1994), Mukut Parvat (1999), Mont Blanc (1991) and Valley (1982). He was awarded the Gen Daulat Singh Trophy for Mountaineering. Colonel Dutt is currently Chairman of the Sport Climbing Committee.
Colonel Amit Roy
His mountaineering exploits include Bidhan Peak (1967), Gangotri (1975), Gangotri I & II (1976), Raul and Gharol (1977), and Bramha (1977). He has also climbed Mt. Ngaurahoe and Ruapehu, New Zealand.
Brigd K. Khullar
His mountaineering exploits include Gorichen (1962), Kokthang North (1967), Dev Ban (1968), and Kinnaur Kailash (1973). He was the leader of the 1984 Indian Everest Expedition and the 1987 Indo-British Army Saser Kangri IV expedition. Brig Khuliar is an accomplished writer.
Gp Capt A. K. Chowdhury
Gp Capt Chowdhury has been a name to reckon with. He was a member of the first Indian Expedition to Nanda Devi, the Indian Everest Expedition in 1960, first successful Neelkantha Expedition in 1961. He is still remembered for his humane approach.
Gp Capt A. J. S. Grewal
An accomplished mountaineer, he was a member of the Everest Team in 1969 and the Neelkanth Expedition of 1961. He is a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. Group Capt Grewal was also the leader of the IMF & IAF expedition to Talung.GP. CAPT. A. J. S. GREWAL (Jan 1973 to May 1977).
Lt Colonel A. S. Cheema
The fifth Principal of the Institute was a member of the first successful Indian Everest expedition in 1965. He sumitted the Everest and was the first and still the only principal to do so. The Institute’s indoor rock climbing wall has been named after him. He was awarded Padma Shri for his contribution to the field of mountaineering.
Colonel N. Kumar
Colonel Kumar has also been awarded Padma Bhushan & Padma Shri for his stellar service in the field of mountaineering. Out of 13 highest peaks above 24, 000 feet, nine have been climbed under his leadership. His triumph on the Kanchenjunga North East Spur route is still part of climbing folklore.
Colonel B. S. Jaiswal
He had been an accomplished mountaineer of the Indian Army. He led the first successful expedition to Mt. Rathong in West Sikkim in 1964. It was during his watch that Lord & Lady John Hunt visited HMI, Darjeeling.
Brigd Gyan Singh
He was the second Principal of the Institute. His contribution to Indian Mountaineering has been unparalleled. He led the first Indian Everest expedition in 1960. In 1947, he set up the Army Ski School at Gulmarg. In 1961, he was awarded Padma Shri and he founded the National Adventure Foundation in 1979.
Major N. D. Jayal
Major Jayal was one of the pioneers to introduce mountaineering in the country. Among his mountaineering exploits includes the first ascents of Sakang, (24,150 feet) and Saken (24, 130 feet). Major Jayal also led an expedition to Nanda Devi in 1957. He was also the leader and summiteer of the 1951 expedition to Kamet.