Principals of HMI
Colonel Neeraj Rana
(Jan 2008 to Jan 2013)
Colonel Rana, had the distinction of serving as Vice Principal of Nehru Institute Mountaineering for three years. Colonel Rana is associated with all three spheres of adventure sports i.e, Aero, Aqua and land activities. He is a trained microlight pilot and instructor in Para gliding. He was leader of HMI Makalu Expedition in 2009 and Everest Expedition in 2012.
Colonel J. S. Dhillon
(August 2004 to Jan 2008)
A distinguished mountaineer and skier, he was the first Indian to climb the virgin Saser Kangri IV along with the British team in 1987. His name also figures in the Limca Book of World record for leading the most challenging Indian Attempt on Kamet from west face. He has participated and led large number of expeditions in the Himalaya.
Colonel Vijay Singh
(Sep 1999 to August 2004)
His Mountaineering career has been quite eventful. He has served as an instructor in High Altitude Warfare School, Gulmarg. He was leader of successful HMI Mount Everest Expedition from North Face in 2003 in which two climbers summitted the mountain.
Colonel H. S. Chauhan
(Apr 1995 to Sep 1999)
His Mountaineering career has been quite eventful, he has many successful expeditions to peaks which include Stok Kangri, Gulab Kangri, Mount Blanc (French Alps), Mana, Neelkanth, Kabru, Nanda Devi East Gya North, Gorichen, Kamet, Abi Gamin and Aconcagua (Argentina). He received Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award. He was member of trans Himalayan Expedition which traversed 8000 Km in 475 days. Colonel Chauhan is currently president of Indian Mountaineering Foundation.
Colonel Ajit Dutt
(May 1990 to Feb 1995)
His climbs include Everest (1985), Shivling (1985), Satopanth (1997), first climb of Gorichen (1994), Mukut Parvat (1999), Mont Blanc (1991) and Valley (1982). He was Indian delegate to mountaineering Commission, UlAA. His publications are ‘Call of the Valley’ and Quest for Stillness”. He was awarded Gen Daulat Singh Trophy for Mountaineering. Colonel Dutt is currently Chairman of Sport Climbing Committee.
Colonel Amit Roy
(Dec 1985 to Dec 1989)
His mountaineering exploits include Bidhan Peak (1967), Gangotri (1975), Gangotri I & II (1976), Raul and Gharol (1977), Bramha (1977). He has also climbed Mt. Ngaurahoe and Ruapehu, New Zealand. A senior member of mountaineering Community, he remained active in the field post retirement and was associated with IMF, New Delhi.
Brigd K. Khullar
(Dec 1981 to Aug 1985)
His mountaineering exploits include Gorichen (1962), Kokthang North (1967), Dev Ban (1968), Kinnaur Kailash (1973). He was leader of 1984 Indian Everest Expedition and 1987 Indo-British Army Saser Kangri IV expedition. Brig Khuliar is an accomplished writer. His book “The Call of Everest” is still a great read in annals of Everest climbing.
Gp Capt A. K. Chowdhury
(May 1977 to Dec 1981)
Gp Capt Chowdhury has been a name to reckon with. He was member of first Indian Expedition to Nanda Devi, Indian Everest Expedition 1960, first successful Neelkantha Expedition 1961. He is still remembered for his humane approach.
Gp Capt A. J. S. Grewal
(Jan 1973 to May 1977)
An accomplished mountaineer, he was member of Everest Team in 1969 and Neelkanth Expedition of 1961. He is a fellow of Royal Geographical Society. Group Capt Grewal was also leader of IMF & IAF expedition to Talung.GP. CAPT. A. J. S. GREWAL (Jan 1973 to May 1977) An accomplished mountaineer, he was member of Everest Team in 1969 and Neelkanth Expedition of 1961. He is a fellow of Royal Geographical Society. Group Capt Grewal was also leader of IMF & IAF expedition to Talung.
Lt Colonel A. S. Cheema
(Jan 1971 to 1973)
The fifth Principal of the Institute was a member of first successful Indian Everest expedition of 1965. He summitted the Everest and was the first and still the only principal to do so. The Institute’s indoor rock climbing wall has been named after him. He was awarded Padma Shri for his contribution to the field of mountaineering.
Colonel A. Kumar
(Jun 1966 to Dec 1970)
Colonel Kumar, has also been awarded Padma Bhushan & Padma Shri for his stellar service in the field of mountaineering. Out of 13 highest peaks above 24, 000 feet, nine have been climbed under his leadership. His triumph on Kanchenjunga North East Spur route is still part of climbing folklore. He was Deputy Leader of 1965 Everest Expedition which had put nine people on the top, a world record at that time.
Colonel B. S. Jaiswal
(March 1962 to Jun 1966)
He had been an accomplished mountaineer of Indian Army. He led the first successful expedition to Mt. Rathong in West Sikkim in 1964. It was during his watch that Lord & Lady John Hunt visited HMI, Darjeeling.
Brigd Gyan Singh
(March 1958 to March 1962)
He was the second Principal of the Institute. His contribution to Indian Mountaineering has been unparalleled. He led the first Indian Everest expedition in 1960. In 1947, he set up Army Ski School at Gulmarg. In 1961, he was awarded Padma Shri and he founded National Adventure Foundation in 1979.
Major N. D. Jayal
(June 1954 to March 1958)
Major Jayal was one of the pioneers to introduce mountaineering in the country. Among his mountaineering exploits includes first ascents of Sakang, (24,150 feet) and Saken (24, 130 feet). Major Jayal also led an expedition to Nanda Devi in 1957. He was also leader and summiteer of 1951 expedition to Kamet. HMI is still beholden to the memory of the Institute’s founder Principal, who was a real doyen of Himalayan climbing.
